The SS2013 collection marries research in time-honoured handcraft techniques (crochet, hand-knitting and drawn thread work) to menswear and traditional tailoring.
For the Spring-Summer 2013 season, I looked at time-honoured techniques used in religious garments such as drawn thread work and crochet.
In the past, hours of handmade work by laborious women created beautiful artefacts starting from relatively poor materials (heavy linen, cotton threads or a hook and spun cotton). The inner value of these object was never connected with the materials but with the transformation operated by women. The person who crochets or embroiders transforms materials to produce a whole range of meanings.
Different from tailoring, that uses already refined material such as fine wool fabrics, feminine crafts work on relatively raw materials to create even very complex artefacts. This aspect is charged from highly symbolic and cultural connotative meanings: time, patience, dedication and craftsmanship were infused in the work becoming its inner value.
On the other hand, my work has a relevant ethical implication to the sharing of an otherwise disappearing knowledge.
ROMANCE VS PROPHECY
The inspiration for the collection is the esoteric South America depicted in The Holy Mountain by Alejandro Jodorowsky (1973).
The characteristic of the collection is the adoption of Italian traditional techniques such as drawn-thread embroidery joined to tailoring and a strong presence of handmade knitwear that constitutes the outerwear offering.
The silhouette is played on the layering of long minimally embroidered shirts with short spencer jackets with drawn-thread worked facings.
Oversized hand-knitted cardigans and anoraks were styled with wide floating trousers, tunics and shorts or tailored slim trousers.