Kenneth Anger’s esoteric and homoerotic vision of the 50-60ies underground biker culture is the main visual inspiration for the SS2014 collection. The obsession for leather and chains matched with his orientalist taste for ethnic artefacts are inspiring the design and colour palette of the handcrafted spencer jackets.
The collection marries research in time-honoured handcraft techniques (crochet, hand-knitting and drawn thread work) to menswear with an edgy and contemporary street attitude.
Design Development and Details
CHAIN AND CROCHET PANELLING
For the Spring-Summer 2014 season, I looked at ancient techniques used in religious garments like drawn thread work and crochet mixed and built on the basis of aluminium chains.
The panelling of tops and jackets is built on a mix of hand knitting, crochet net and crocheted metal chains, developing a new fabric composed by all these crafts worked together.
Since this season I’ve started to collaborate with a leather wear manufacturer based in London.
Pattern-cutting for leather is slightly different from doing it for wovens, so I spent time at the facility and I learnt the necessary skill to cut my own pattern for my leather bikers. When the patterns were fitted, finalised and digitalised in Lectra, I handed them to the manufacturer that produced prototypes in soft lambskin leather.
Two styles have section quilted by hand, while a third style is in plain black nappa.
The cut of the garments is slim and the metalware is of high quality. I chose the zippers from the top of the range of Riri (SIMMETRICA®) and YKK (EXCELLA®).
Also in this collection, hand-knitting played a big part.
For this season I used Egyptian cotton matched with alternative, but sustainable, furry yarns to create a more textured look for my garments.