The FW 2012/13 collection is based on the menswear wardrobe staples:
the suit, the coat, the trench coat, the blouson and the crisp white shirt.
The proportions of the menswear classics have been manipulated to archive a specific silhouette. Based on the reinterpretation of early century military designs, the high-wasted trousers and cropped spencers redefined the suits' proportions according to a svelte but structured silhouette.
Sculptural hoods and crater-shaped collars enriched the cocoon-shaped wool coats.
My original pattern cutting approach is based on traditional canvassed tailoring joined with hand-made crochet panels crafted in the North of Italy.
The hand made elements are structural in the garments' construction: the delicate handmade elements and the woven parts were hand-sewn together.
I started to construct my garments from crochet panelling. I decided at first crochet would not be a surface decoration, but a structural part of the garment’s pattern. During the toile phase of my work, I’ve first drafted the crochet panels, which have been handmade first, then I construct the remaining panels of my clothes to match the crocheted parts.
After finishing the pattern and the crochet parts, an Italian manufacturer working for Futurenet Group on Raf Simons’s collections sampled the final garments based on my prototypes. They put together my garments using traditional tailoring techniques and their superb manufacturing skills.